April 09, 2006
Anthonino's Taverna
The drag of working in the foodservice industry is that impressive food becomes a frustrating and elusive thing. I go to lots of trade shows and brokers and sales representatives are constantly parading new products in front of me. It’s a classic example of knowing too much when I dine out.
So it’s a rare day indeed when I eat something so fantastic, so spectacular, so superior to anything else I’ve tried around town that I feel compelled to endorse it to any willing audience. Ladies and gentlemen, that day has arrived.
There’s a cute little bar/restaurant over on Macklind where I hide out from time to time. Despite being on the Hill, the menu doesn’t play favorites and offers Greek, Italian, bar food and American hybrids. My usual order at Anthonino’s is roasted sweet red peppers with feta cheese and pita but I deviated from the plan on Friday when the chalkboard outside promoted the fish sandwich. I like a good piece of fish as much as the next girl and was thoroughly thrilled at the chance to use the Ladies’ Man voice when ordering.
The sandwich came with some weird vinegar-y slaw and a platter of greasy, limp fries but the headliner was something to behold. What arrived was a grouper fillet about ten inches in length and thicker than my wrist until it finally tapered down to the end. The batter wasn’t oily or salty but fluffy and light. To my surprise and delight, the coating wasn’t mushy on the inside and the fish itself was firm and flaky. Try as I might, I couldn’t make out even a hint of rubber texture as I chewed it-so uncommon in the common man’s sammich. The flavor was mild and almost sweet, while a soft French loaf performed transportation duties to my speechless gob. It was perfect.
I’m afraid to go back. It couldn’t possibly ever be that good again. But for you, here’s the info:
Anthonino’s Taverna on the Hill
2225 Macklind
314.773.4455
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